The very striking feature of the Batswana (the people of Botswana) is their polite friendliness.  This is part of their history and, as a result, they live in a happy, democratic and successful country.  Botswana is possibly one of the nicest countries of the 52 that make up the continent of Africa.

Tourists should expect to be greeted by people in the street, by market stallholders, by shopkeepers, by museum attendants, by waiting and other hotel staff and even by complete strangers.  Visitors from the UK are much liked and we have been asked to take messages of goodwill to the Queen.  The occasional white face causes no reaction despite the very small white population.  

Handshakes are expected, with often the more elaborate version for men involving grasping of the thumbs: shake, grasp, shake.  It’s very helpful to have mastered a few phrases in Setswana (the main language) which pave the way for any transaction.  It is considered very rude to jump straight into the business.  

Greetings always come first:

• “dumela, mma” (hello to a female of any age)

• “dumela, rra” (hello to a male of any age)    

• “dumelang” (hello to a group)

• “dumelang bo mma” (hello to a group of females)

• “dumelang bo rre” (hello to a group of males)

• “dumelang bo mme le bo rre (hello to a mixed group)

• “O tsogile” (How are you?)

• “Ke tsogile” (I am fine)

• At the end of a conversation:“go siame” (It’s alright”)

The language is pronounced mostly as written, except that G is pronounced H and a final e is spoken. So the capital city of Gaborone is pronounced Haboronee not Gaborown.  Many Batswana speak English and some of this seems quirky to UK tourists.  For example, a carrier bag is a “plastic.”  Another example is the use of “late” to mean someone has passed away:  “Mma Ramotswe is now late” where UK folks would refer to “the late Mma Ramotswe.”

Another important aspect of Botswana culture is a long-held respect for democracy.  The Batswana expect to be consulted and have a tradition of discussion in local meeting places, called the Kgotla.  (You could visit one in Tlokweng, on the edge of Gaborone.)  The rules in the Kgotla are binding: everyone can have a say but no-one is to be interrupted, see History page. This rule spills over into other occasions: at a recent wedding that we were privileged to attend, elders spoke at length about their families and who is related to whom.  The Kgotla rules applied.  At a second ceremony, the senior menfolk sat on chairs in a Kgotla-style semi-circle and took turns to give the bridegroom their advice.  Meanwhile, the womenfolk in traditional, colourful dress, sat on blankets and gave the bride their individual pieces of wisdom.  Tradition and modernity met here: at the back of the women’s gathering, a traditionally dressed women was observed talking on her pink mobile phone.  

Governments and the President are elected in fair elections.  One party has dominated all eleven of the elections since independence (the Botswana Democratic Party) and the opposition has little influence but there is no question that fairness operates.  

To UK observers, some of Botswana’s attitudes may be thought to be old-fashioned and rather conservative.  There are now women in government and women may attend the Kgotla meetings so things are improving on the equal opportunities front but there remain a number of inequalities.  Women are not permitted to wear trousers to kgotla meetings or to traditional settings such as weddings or funerals.  Tourists need to bear this conservatism in mind: Botswana’s democracy and kindness does not extend to skimpy dress, men wearing hats indoors or speaking out of turn.  Cows and money still change hands as a bride price (called bogadi): a bride is worth about seven cows.

The pace of life in Botswana is gentler than in the UK.  Be prepared for slower assistance in shops, for timekeeping being somewhat casual (shops do not necessarily open at their advertised time), for some things (usually not very important) not quite working (eg in hotels) and for the internet and emails to be uncertain.  These matters will probably  be of little concern to tourists but business people are said to find them very irritating.  Never-the-less, days start early.  Stallholders are setting up in the market at 6.00 am; shops often open at 8.00 am (nominally!) and some earlier; children are on their way to school at 7.00 am.  Breakfasts in our hotels begin at 6.00 am.  Government offices open at 7.30 am and banks at 8.30 or 9.00 am.  Touristy places, such as museums and animal reserves, generally open later but do check their websites for the details.